The word "local" is now all the rage in Chicago and in the States in general: eating only locally grown or raised food is considered the right thing to do, and is very hip. Often the eat local movement is associated with the seasonal movement, i.e. the credo that you should be eating stuff that is in season at the moment (pears in the Fall, watermelon in the Summer).
If I find the seasonal movement a sensible idea (within reason), I find the local movement quite upsetting. I understand the alleged moral drive behind it, but it makes me uncomfortable. For a long time I couldn't exactly articulate why, but then I read this interview of Nigella Lawson, and she says it perfectly.
"Now I get that [the local movement]. I understand it entirely but I don't buy into it. In the Victorian age the peasants just ate local and in season and the aristocracy spent fortunes building greenhouses and growing pineapples. It was a class issue. It was about the elite. Now suddenly because of supermarkets and air travel, the masses — if you want to talk in class terms — can get out of season produce. So what do the elite do? They say If it is not seasonal, if it is not local, it isn't good. So although there is probably in and of its self there is moral value in it, I distrust elitist attitudes in food.
Exactly! As much as I don't like Nigella's food (for the same reason why I am not a fan of Jamie Oliver: I think their recipes come out bland and don't taste good), I think she is spot on here. One of the greatest advantage of modern life is that you can now eat a variety of food at decent price, thanks to transportation. I am pretty sure that I wouldn't have to pay 10$ a pound for rabbit if shops didn't store only the "local" rabbits...
The whole locavore movement smells like elitism from far away. And if there are two things I distrust in life, these are the Government and the elites. Here you go.
PS: Incidentally, I am often criticized as someone who hates "healthy food" because I DARE say that Jamie Oliver is not a great chef: I think people should grow up and start thinking with their own heads, and understand that you CAN criticize Oliver and still be in favor of healthy food. Fortunately, criticizing the whining Brit is not a crime yet. Jamie Oliver is not God: wake up, losers!
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Thursday, December 2, 2010
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tuscanfoodie
15 comments:
Not easy topic, not at all.
In Italy too there's a growing attention to local food, the main justification is to reduce transpostation cost and related pollution. Furthermore, local and seasonal food is supposed to cost less...at least in theory.
I agree with you that everyone should learn to use their heads before to follow a fashion. Anyway start speaking and maybe stressing about those topics could be a way to increare people awareness about the need of start thinking about what they eat and buy.
Hi Rossella, thank you for your comment. The key is exactly in the words you use: "in theory". In theory local food should cost less, in practice it doesn't. And there are good reasons why in practice it doesn't: if you really go local also in the production phases of your food, then you will have to use resources that are available only locally, and that may be scarcer than on a larger market. Hence the price goes up.
I am afraid Nigella is onto something when she says it is an elitist movement...
I would dare say something more: often foodies desire to live in a sort of elitist world. Only the best, only the Good, only not common or forgot ingredients etc.
When real life impose to makes choice and to be able to do the best with what you have.
I agree: and tese are often the same people that end up spending $6 for a pound of pasta (half a kilo) from an obscure artisanal place, which tastes EXACTLY - if not worse - than the regular Barilla.
I CANNOT stand them.
Great post. Makes me think of some acquaintances who would shop for hours and days just to find salt from the Himalayas. Talking baout being a food elitist...
You sound like a bit of a paranoid idiot.
The local movement is to reduce the use of greenhouse gas producing methods of food delivery from thousands of miles away just so you can have a fancy apple or strawberry.
Elitist? Shut the hell up.
Speculoos, exactly: although the Himalayan stuff would drive locavores mad.
Mandamus, why can you not argue without offending? You sound like an English speaker, so I am sure you can articulate your thoughts without the need of using offenses. If you can, you are welcome. If you can't, get the fuck out, please.
Hey - thought of you this past weekend while I was out shopping at an Italian deli (Nottoli 5025 N Harlem - Near Harlem & Foster) - they have frozen whole rabbit at $5.99/lb.
Hey Paula K, thanks! I will definitely check it out...it is 40% cheaper than the one I got!
are you ***really*** in favor of health food, though???? argh.
@ Mandamus: your explanation doesn't explain why we don't have a trend for locally built cars with local materials, locally made clothes, and a long such list...
Fabrizio, I know you are provoking me, but yes, I am in favor, as long as it tastes good. And this is something that is shared also by "health" chefs: food should TASTE good, not only be good for you.
For the rest, you are making a very valid point. Localism, if implemented correctly, will make us go back to the Middle Age...
Nigella's Butternut Squash with Blue Cheese! Seriously lovely. Especially at Thanksgiving.
http://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/nigella-lawson/butternut-squash-with-pecans-and-blue-cheese-recipe/index.html
You know Krista? The more I cook with butternut squash, the more I think that that thing tastes great with pretty much EVERYTHING. The combination with blue cheese sounds VERY good...thanks!
I don't care if it's elitist or not. Buying in season and possibly local makes sense: food tastes good and costs less (at the farmer's market).
Do you care that much about others' motivations? I don't, if it works for me, it's ok.
Mmm, food costs less at the farmers' market? Really? Not in Chicago...The farmers' market in Chicago must be the place with the highest rip offs I have ever seen in my life...
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